All about Mt. Haguro’s Five Story Pagoda

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All about Mt. Haguro’s Five Story Pagoda

The Five-Story Pagoda of Mount Haguro is widely regarded as an extraordinary architectural treasure. This completely wooden structure has remained standing for hundreds of years in a remote forest surrounded by heavy snowfall, enduring earthquakes, conflicts, and major social changes. Its remarkable durability and elegant design have earned admiration from visitors around the world.

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Celeste Ashford

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The Five-Story Pagoda of Mount Haguro is widely regarded as an extraordinary architectural treasure. This completely wooden structure has remained standing for hundreds of years in a remote forest surrounded by heavy snowfall, enduring earthquakes, conflicts, and major social changes. Its remarkable durability and elegant design have earned admiration from visitors around the world.

As one of the most recognizable landmarks of Mount Haguro and the Dewa Sanzan sacred mountains, the pagoda offers a mysterious and spiritual atmosphere. Hidden among ancient cedar trees, the peaceful surroundings make visiting the Five-Story Pagoda an unforgettable experience for those searching for one of Japan’s most sacred destinations.

The Origins and Meaning of Five-Story Pagodas

Five-story pagodas originally developed from Indian stupas, which were dome-shaped monuments built to preserve the remains of important figures such as rulers and religious leaders. Over time, these structures became symbols of Buddha after his passing in the 5th century BCE.

Japanese pagodas were influenced by Chinese architectural styles, but gradually Japanese builders began constructing them mainly with wood. This material provided flexibility that helped the buildings survive earthquakes, although it also made many pagodas vulnerable to fires throughout history.

Each level of a five-story pagoda represents one of the essential Buddhist elements: earth, water, fire, wind, and emptiness. Together, these five components symbolize the complete universe. Unlike Chinese temple complexes where pagodas often serve as central buildings, Japanese pagodas are usually used as places to preserve sacred objects and religious treasures, such as Buddhist statues and relics.

History of the Five-Story Pagoda at Mount Haguro

According to local legends, the first Five-Story Pagoda at Mount Haguro was constructed between 931 and 938 by the famous samurai Taira no Masakado. However, historical records from Mount Haguro indicate that the current structure was rebuilt in 1372 under the direction of Daihoji Masauji, the chief priest of Mount Haguro.

The pagoda survived the widespread destruction of Buddhist sites during the Meiji Restoration period beginning in 1868. Before this era, Buddhism and Shintoism had existed together in Japan for centuries, with many temples and shrines sharing the same religious grounds. The Dewa Sanzan region followed this tradition as well.

After the Meiji government introduced State Shinto policies, many Buddhist buildings and artifacts were destroyed across Japan. Historical estimates suggest that a large percentage of Buddhist cultural treasures were lost during this period. Mount Haguro was especially affected, with the number of temples on the mountain greatly reduced. Fortunately, the Five-Story Pagoda was transformed into a Shinto structure before it could be destroyed.

Remaining Signs of Historical Destruction

Evidence of this difficult period can still be found throughout the Dewa Sanzan area. The open space around the Five-Story Pagoda may seem unusual today, but it was once filled with additional temple buildings that disappeared during the religious changes of the Meiji era.

Visitors can also notice the Jizo statues near the pagoda. Many of these statues were recovered from the nearby Haraigawa River after religious freedom was restored in Japan. Some of them still show signs of damage, including missing heads, reflecting the intense conflict between different religious movements at the time.

Fortunately, hostility toward Buddhism eventually declined before the Five-Story Pagoda was targeted. After World War II, State Shinto was abolished and religious practices became free again. Some Buddhist treasures that had been hidden during the earlier period are now displayed at Senbutsudo Hall near the mountain summit. The original Kannon Buddhist statue from the pagoda can also be viewed at Shozen’in Koganedo Temple.

Unique Features of the Five-Story Pagoda

Standing at 29.2 meters tall, the Five-Story Pagoda of Mount Haguro is not the largest or oldest pagoda in Japan. However, several special characteristics make it truly remarkable.

Unlike most Japanese five-story pagodas, which are usually located inside temple grounds, Mount Haguro’s pagoda stands alone in a small clearing surrounded by a dense cedar forest. Its isolated position in a snowy mountain environment gives it a unique charm.

Architecture Designed for Extreme Weather

Like many pagodas, the roofs of Mount Haguro’s tower gradually become smaller toward the top. However, this difference is less dramatic compared with other examples. The design helps manage the heavy snowfall in the region, where winter snow can accumulate to depths of around five meters.

Every winter, residents from the nearby village of Toge climb inside the pagoda to remove accumulated snow. This long-standing tradition demonstrates the local community’s dedication to preserving this historic structure.

A Masterpiece of Traditional Wooden Construction

The Five-Story Pagoda is built entirely from wood without the use of nails or painted coatings. Craftsmen carefully assembled cedar from the surrounding mountains using traditional Japanese woodworking techniques.

The roofs are constructed with wooden shingles known as Kokerabuki, creating a distinctive historical appearance. To protect the structure from earthquakes, the pagoda uses a central supporting pillar system that reduces vibrations and maintains balance, a concept similar to technology used in some modern skyscrapers such as Tokyo Skytree. Today, however, the internal pillar only extends to the second floor because of damage caused over centuries.

Two Historic Pagodas in Tsuruoka City

Another interesting feature is that the Five-Story Pagoda of Mount Haguro is one of two five-story pagodas located within Tsuruoka City. This makes Tsuruoka the only city in northern Japan with two structures of this kind.

After Haguro Town merged with Tsuruoka City in 2005, the Five-Story Pagoda officially became part of the same municipality as the pagoda at Zenpoji Temple.

Best Time to Visit Mount Haguro’s Five-Story Pagoda

Late summer and the autumn foliage season are often considered ideal times to visit the Five-Story Pagoda. During these months, visitors can also enjoy hiking opportunities on Mount Gassan and Mount Yudono, along with various seasonal events.

Summer visitors may experience special events such as the Five-Story Pagoda illumination and the Dewa Sanzan Flower Festival. Another unique event takes place on August 25 and September 1 each year, when hundreds of Yamabushi mountain ascetics march along the stone steps during the Akinomine Ritual. This period also connects with the Hassaku Festival held at the summit of Mount Haguro on August 31.

Mount Haguro can be visited throughout the year, including winter. Travelers looking for a more adventurous experience can borrow snowshoes for free from the nearby Ideha Cultural Museum.

How to Reach the Five-Story Pagoda

The most recommended way to reach the Five-Story Pagoda is by walking from the Zuishinmon Gate at the foot of Mount Haguro. This route is convenient for visitors staying at pilgrimage lodges or Saikan near the mountain summit, as well as those visiting the Dewa Sanzan Shrine.

From Zuishinmon Gate, travelers follow a 500-meter stone staircase through a magnificent cedar forest. After passing through the gate, the path descends past several small shrines before reaching the Shinkyo Bridge. The bridge crosses the Haraigawa River, a sacred stream where Yamabushi practitioners traditionally performed purification rituals before beginning their mountain journey.

Continuing along the trail, visitors pass Suganotaki Waterfall and the famous Grandpa Cedar tree before reaching the pagoda on the left side of the path. For those who require easier access, a special road allows vehicles to approach the area. The Five-Story Pagoda of Mount Haguro remains a remarkable symbol of Japanese spirituality, craftsmanship, and historical preservation.

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